The exact number of dolls on display is unknown as the town’s residents all decorate with their own Hina dolls. However the number given by the officials is about 20.000, a figure that increases every year as dolls are constantly being donated. The dolls displayed are from all over Japan and there are more than 60 types of local Hina dolls. Besides the decoration there are festival activities both for children and adults, mainly targeted on getting families to gather together. Children dance in parades and make other performances, and there is also a big exhibition of Hina dolls created by the school children. Children are in the center, but the message of the festival is to unleash the child within and just have fun.

“Katsuura Big Hina Matsuri”, just the name itself gave me big expectations, and the town’s festival really lived up to its name. The widespread display of Hina dolls was very impressive. Dolls really had taken over the town. The people in Katsuura showed strong affection for this tradition, and all seemed to be in a particular festive and cheerful state. In spite of cold and rainy weather and wind stronger than 30 meters per second, it was surprisingly crowded. Though the display of dolls was impressive it still puzzled me how the festival could attract as many people in close to dangerous weather. Watching how people had to seek shelter from the gusts of wind, but still proceeded to look at the dolls, I just had to know what the secret behind the attraction was.

  My first approach was two small girls, Nanami, 5 years old and her 3-year-old sister Aya, who were being photographed by their parents in front of a big Hina doll display.
First they both were a bit skeptical being asked questions by a stranger, but eventually Nanami talked about how much she enjoyed the festival and had looked forward to it. “It’s such fun and the dolls are very pretty”, she said dreamingly while glancing up at the dolls. Aya the younger sister, who had stayed quiet suddenly clamored, “ I simply love Hina festival”. I was totally smitten by the girls’ childish excitement and remembered how I too as a little girl often let myself dream away.

Next I went to see the huge Hina doll display in the staircase at the local shrine. In the midst of a miniature hurricane I miraculously got to talk to two women, Mariko Saito and her daughter-in-law Ai Saito, who were defying the strong winds.

 First Ai explained how she had come to the festival as a teenager and that she was so impressed by the amount of dolls and therefore wanted to come back together with her husband. Mariko said that she attends Hina festivals every year and that she personally even makes quilts with Hina doll motives. She spoke about her family’s strong Hina festival traditions, and explained that they had one whole room for the dolls, which were set out several weeks in advance of the festival. At first, when she was little the dolls scared her because she felt that they were steering at her. However, little by little she grew very fond of them. “During the festival the whole family gathered together to have a big party, everyone was so cheerful and happy. It was a special time of the year” she reminisced. Mariko said that she wanted to bring Ai, who newly had become her daughter-in-law, to the festival, so she could see how wonderful the festival is and make her own Hina traditions that she can pass on to the next generation.

 After walking up and down the streets looking at all kinds of Hina decorations, from the traditional dolls to modern versions with Pikachu and Ultra man, Japanese cartoon characters, I stumbled on a shoe shop that in the occasion of the festival had turned into a Hina doll workshop. The shop was full of people of all ages. I first just observed the doll production, and then suddenly I was persuaded into creating my own as well.

 Miyura Fusano, who was sitting next to me was deeply concentrating making dolls for Mina, her 3 year-old daughter. She said that making the perfect Hina dolls was an expression of love for her daughter.
Opposite side of the table sat 10-year-old Nana, who explained that she wanted to make Hina dolls so much that she had come even though it meant going alone.
We all exchanged ideas of how to paint the dolls and got quite carried away. It was a very enjoyable afternoon, and I really felt like part of a fellowship with the people around me, in spite of being foreign and a total stranger. It was a highly memorable experience and a priceless souvenir.

  Looking back on my “Katsuura Big Hina Matsuri” experience, I would say that the festival’s name rather should be changed to “Katsuura Big Hearted Hina Matsuri”. Because even though the displays of the dolls were impressive and a big attraction, the most memorable aspect of the festival, was after all, all the warm hearted people who showed kindness both to their loved-ones as well as an alien like me. The people’s consideration for each other and the traditions that tie generations together, inspired me to treasure what the Hina festival represents, and to make my own Hina festival tradition that I can pass on to my own children one day.